SHANGHAI

With Zhengzhou and the Shaolin Temple checked off my list, I took off for Shanghai! My friend Mac, who I taught English with in Thailand has been living in Shanghai for the last two years and was kind enough to put me up for a few days. Having felt completely lost in the English-free city of Zhengzhou, I arrived in Shanghai feeling as though I'd just resurfaced back in the western world. I could probably live in Shanghai and never learn Chinese. I think some people do. On our first night we went out in a neighborhood called the French Concession - first to a sports bar where I ate nachos and pizza, and then to a brewery where I drank a tasty draught IPA. Don't worry, I also got my fair share of delicious Shanghai style cousine while I was there, including some explosive soup dumplings that literally blew up when I bit into them - xiao long bao, more like xiao long BLAOW! I got a great taste of Shanghai, from the sweeping, modern Pudong skyline, to the old but rejuvenated alleyways of Tianzifang - it was one of those cities that I could almost picture myself living in.

SHAOLIN TEMPLE

My plan after Pingyao was to make my way towards Shanghai - from an ancient walled-city to a modern metropolis!  After discovering that the train ride was going to be awfully long, I decided to break up the voyage with a two day layover in the city of Zhengzhou. From there I could take a day trip into the surrounding mountains and visit one of China's most famous Zen Buddhist temples and the birthplace of Shaolin kung fu - the legendary Shaolin Temple! I don't know how many kung fu movies I've watched in my life, but it's enough that I started to feel really excited about this added detour. The train to Zhengzhou got me in a little after dark and spat me out into a city of two million, surrounded by tall buildings, neon lights, and not a lick of English. I eventually found the cheap little hotel that was listed in the guidebook even though I couldn't read any of the signs, but was turned away at the front desk when they handed me a worn piece of paper announcing that they didn't accept foreigners anymore because their hotel rating was too low. Interesting. I wandered back into the square and spun a few circles. Feeling lost and totally out of my element, I found myself being drawn to the one thing in sight that looked familiar, the ubiquitous golden arches! I could see at least three different McDonald's from where I was standing, so I caved in, bought a chicken sandwich, and reevaluated my situation. I ended up finding a place close by that was a little more than I'd like to pay, but at that point I just wanted to put down my bag and get comfortable. 

The next morning I went to the bus station to buy a ticket to the Shaolin Temple. Since there was no English anywhere and probably twenty ticket windows, I just went up to the one with the shortest line and said "Shaolin Temp-oh". I know that 'temp-oh' is not 'temple' in Chinese, but that's how I'd heard Chinese people say 'temple' in English. I learned this technique when I was living in Thailand. There was a big mall down the road from my apartment called Future Park - that was it's name, it was in English. But whenever I would jump into a taxi and head to the mall, no matter how many times I said 'Future Park' in perfect English, the taxi driver wouldn't have a clue as to what I was saying until I pronounced it 'Fyoo-cha Pahhk'. Anyways, I managed to get a bus ticket to the Shaolin Temple. I guess at the time I wasn't exactly sure if I had, but once I boarded the minibus and saw that they were playing Lord of the Wu Tang starring Jet Li on the little TV in the front, I was pretty sure I was heading in the right direction. 

It was a two hour bus ride up into the mountains and on the way up I found myself surrounded by a group of Korean high school students who were studying in Beijing for the year. Feeling a little confused about exactly where I was going, the group of students and their teacher asked me if I wanted to join them for the day. Traveling solo is great, but it can also be lonely at times, obviously - so I was happy to accept the invitation and join the group. Our visit to the Shaolin Temple ended up being part of a big tour. Which isn't a bad thing, but normally I like to take my time exploring a place, wander about at my own speed, and perhaps try to snap some photos without feeling rushed. I managed to take a few pictures, but a lot of the time my new teacher friend would excitedly borrow my camera and have me pose for a picture with his students. It was fine. Anyway, it ends up that the Shaolin Temple has become something like a kung fu Disney Land. It's still an active temple, but it's popularity has transformed it into a moneymaker. Built up around the temple are a handful of martial arts academies, and the entire walk up to the temple was lined by fields and courtyards full of young kung fu students, fervently training. I could have easily stood around and watched all day, but instead we were rushed up and into an auditorium to take in a quick staged performance.  Much of the day was like this, dictated by a tour guide and pushed along in a muddle of tourists. There were a lot of things I missed out on, I didn't even make it to the Forest of Pagodas! But to be honest, I was distracted most of the time by my new companions. The students were great, kind and curious, and very much young teenagers. It was like smaller cultural experience within a larger one, a microcosm of Korean adolescence on a visit to one of China's most acclaimed temples.

We left the temple in late afternoon and returned to Zhengzhou, and once we got back into town they invited me out to dinner. I finally parted ways with the group around 10 o'clock, after a barrage of photos and a round of hugs. It had been a great day! My trip to the Shaolin Temple hadn't quite turned out as I'd expected, but to quote Paul Theroux, "I sought trains; I found passengers".

CHINESE FUNERAL

I came across a bit of a hoopla one morning in Pingyao as I made my way towards the center of town and the old City Tower. What I usually do in a situation like that is just sit back and observe, but it actually took a while before I realized that it was a funeral procession that I was seeing. For one, the upbeat and lively music threw me off. Crammed off to the side of the narrow street there was a band set up, plugged into an ear-splitting sound system. There was a keyboardist, a guy hammering away on an electric drumkit, a couple of dudes playing symbols, and a few others playing funny looking wind instruments into microphones. It was quite the ensemble. The guy in the background in the picture on the right was playing some kind of high-pitched reeded horn instrument, he seemed to be the leader of the group and his melody carried the tune. It's moments like that that make me I wish I were an ethnomusicologist! The music provided the soundtrack for a procession of vehicles that passed under the City Tower. I later found out that the guy with the interesting headdress in the upper left picture was the son of the man who had passed away. He was facilitating the arrangement of huge bouquets of fake flowers that were being placed on trucks as they drove by.  I followed the parade away from the town center, it was long, and eventually snaked it's way towards the city walls and exited town at the lower west gate. Away from the loud and peppy music, the march felt a little more somber, more like a funeral.  It was a sad day in Pingyao, but I was happy to be alive.

LITTLE EMPEROR

My sister lives in the historic town of Gettysburg, and luckily I was able to spend quite a bit of time there with her this last fall. One of the things I always tried to convince her and her friends to do with me was to go into one of those touristy photo studios where you get dressed up in Civil War garb and pose for an old-timey sepia-tinted photograph. I thought it'd be fun, but we never got around to it. In Pingyao I came across the Chinese version of the old-timey photo shoot. On the main street, in the middle of the town, with the old City Tower looming behind, a little boy dressed as an emperor posed for a picture with his mother and grandmother at his side.  It was pretty cute, although just a little anachronistic with all the modern-day foot traffic in the background.  If I ever get back to Gettysburg and partake in one of those photo shoots, I'll make sure to try and get one with my cell phone at my ear.

CHINESE CHESS

I see a lot of old guys huddled around Chinese chessboards here. It reminds of Portsmouth Square in San Francisco's Chinatown. I used to go there for lunch sometimes during work, and the park was always packed with clusters of old Chinese men sitting around playing Chinese chess. I was always surprised at how much of a spectacle each game was, and now I see that it's the same way in China. Maybe I should try and learn while I'm here. I'm sure if I sat down to play I'd draw a big crowd just based on the fact that I'm not an old Chinese dude.

PINGYAO CITY WALLS

One day I walked halfway around Pingyao on top of the historic 600 year old city walls. From up above I could look out over the town and peek down into the traditional courtyard residences that sat along the base of wall. The three kids in the middle photo were the only people I passed along the way.  Traveling around China during the winter has been wonderful, the crowds are sparse, although I wonder how things will look and feel come spring. But right now I'm enjoying the drab earth and winter fog, especially in places like Pingyao where it only seems fitting for the peaceful and timeworn mise en scène of the old city. 

PINGYAO

After a short stay in a Xi An, and a nice visit with the Terracotta Warriors, I jumped on an overnight train to Pingyao. Pingyao is an ancient walled city. There are a lot of walled cities in China, but this place is like a time warp!  The town could be described as dilapidated but in the most charming sense - dusty lantern-lined cobblestone streets, timeworn grey-brick buildings, and so much texture and character it's like a sensory overload.  The people are a perfect fit; the community is lively, full of old courtyard residences, small shops, and artists selling their work on the street. Piles of old brick can be found in every alley, on hand for any patchwork on the decaying architecture.  The old City Tower stands in the center of town and straddles the main street running north to south.  It's a pretty small town, easy to cover in a day or two, and wonderful to explore by foot or bicycle.  I think this might be the China that everyone pictures China to look like...

THE TERRACOTTA WARRIORS

The first emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang, started building his tomb when he was thirteen years old.  By the time he was laid to rest, his transition into the afterlife was pretty plush. His tomb, which was almost like a smaller version of his imperial palace, also included a ceramic army of around 8,000 life-sized men, built to protect him in his afterlife. The Terracotta Warriors! A lot of the army is still being excavated, and it seems as though it will be a long work in progress. Not only are they carefully being unearthed, but they are also being pieced together little by little, as it seems the entire army was defeated in a battle against some angry peasants. They were no match during the uprising, and all of their weapons were snatched right out of their hands!  Some army that was!  But really though, for a fake army, it's pretty sweet. Every single soldier is unique, like snowflakes, not a single one is alike. The dress varies depending on the rank, the higher ranking ones tend to be a little fatter, some are taller than others, and every single face is different! I checked to see if the guys up front looked a little more scared; they didn't. But I did spot one with the some really cool facial hair - in the top left picture, a huge mustache, some massive sideburns, and a soul patch!  Apparently there's also one that people think looks like Yao Ming, however, he's not seven feet tall, but he was holding a basketball...  

XI AN

After a week in Beijing I took a night train to Xi An. Beijing is massive, so for some reason I was expecting Xi An to feel a little smaller, but with six-million people it was just another metropolis.  There's a Wal-Mart in Xi An, along with every other western chain.  But there's also an old city wall that still remains intact, and runs a thirteen mile ring around the central part of town.  Xi An has spilled and sprawled outside of the city walls, and even though the center of town is dominated by modern buildings, big banks, and shopping malls, there are still  charming old neighborhoods with small walking streets and bustling markets.  You can also get up on top of the wall and circumnavigate the entire city.  One cold and misty morning I went up and took a stroll, it was so much more calm up above the city streets, a quick and easy escape from the madness below.  Exploring Xi An was pretty cool, but the real reason I went there was to visit the Terracotta Warriors...

HUTONG

On my layover in Seattle, heading to Beijing, I realized that I hadn't figured out where I was going to stay upon arrival. Depending on where I'm flying, and when I'm getting in, I'll occasionally just figure it out when I land.  But Beijing is big, I was going to be getting in at night, and from what I'd heard the average cab driver doesn't speak a lick of English. I'd picked up a Lonely Planet guidebook the day before so I flipped through it and found a place located close to the Forbidden City that seemed pretty cool. Twelve hours later I was sliding into the back of cab in Beijing, heading off into the city to find the hostel. The cab driver knew the general area of where I was staying, but had to stop and ask for directions a few times once we got in towards the Forbidden City. Eventually he pulled into a little gas station and got out of the car. I looked out to see where he was going and realized that he was signaling for me to follow him. When I got out of the car I saw that he was pointing me down a dark little street.  I grabbed my bag, paid the cab driver, and after receiving some animated hand gestures on how to navigate the alleyway, I marched off into the labyrinth. A few steps in and the racket coming off the busy street behind me became muffled, I could hear my every footstep. The lighting was dim, but gave off a warm glow.  I'd just been dumped off at a gas station alone to tread down a dark alley, but for some reason I felt completely safe. After a few wrong turns and a little backtracking I finally arrived at my destination. City Walls Courtyard House has been converted into a hostel out of one of Beijings traditional courtyard-style residences. These communal living spaces consist of little walled-in one-story homes that all face a shared courtyard. Pieced together these courtyard residences create a massive network of tiny and intimate alleyways called hutong. Every hutong is full of little doorways that open up into the courtyard residences, most of them are red, some are more elaborate than others, and all of them seem to have at least a few bicycles lined up just inside the entrance. The old part of Beijing is full of these neighborhoods, and I've had a wonderful time getting lost and exploring these old traditional mazes.  

POETRY OR PENMANSHIP?

While strolling the grounds of the Summer Palace, I came across a few men writing calligraphy on the sidewalks with large sponge brushes dipped in water. A few days earlier I'd passed an old man in a little city park doing the same thing. He was sharing his brush with a younger man and they were taking turns writing on the ground, using the tiled concrete as a guideline. I stopped to watch, and after a while he offered me the brush. When I politely refused, he smiled and wrote something for me on the ground. I hope it was nice. I think it was. He smiled afterwards. I came across it again at the Summer Palace, and as you can see by the picture, I wasn't the only one who stopped to watch. I wondered whether people were admiring the penmanship, or if it was more about the content of his writing. Was it poetry?  I think it had to do more with the calligraphy and the art of his writing. It was probably a little of both. Either way, I think it's awesome, and I realized that there's not much of an equivalent in the US. Do they even teaching cursive handwriting in school these days? It's probably been replaced with classes on smartphone thumb typing. I guess I've got some cool fonts on my computer.  

THE SUMMER PALACE

Beijing has numerous parks, gardens, and temples, and the Summer Palace was one of my favorites. I went there on a frosty and foggy morning in the middle of the week. There were quite a few people there, and like the other attractions I'd been to in Beijing, most of them were Chinese tourists or locals.  I'm guessing the place gets packed in the spring and summer. The Summer Palace is built up around Kunming Lake and the hill overlooking the water is covered with paths, gardens, and temples. We had to keep moving to stay warm, but I could imagine this park being a wonderful place to spend the day when the weather is nice.

THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA

There are a number of different sections of the Great Wall that you can get to from Beijing. Some are way more crowded and touristy than others, but luckily the portion I hiked was pretty empty. I only did an out-and-back four-hour hike, but was tempted to keep going as I looked ahead and watched the wall snake through the mountains. The Wall must have sucked to build, but it sure is awesome to hike.

SNACK TIME!

One night I stumbled across an evening snack market just off of a big shopping street.  There were tons of food stands and a large variety of tasty looking treats, as well as some not so tasty looking treats.  I had just eaten, so unfortunately I was too full to try out the scorpions (that were still moving) or the various bug kebabs.  Maybe next time.  Or maybe never!

THE FORBIDDEN CITY

I went to the Forbidden City on my second day in Beijing. It's immense - a little city built for royalty, surrounded by a moat and huge brick walls. For 500 years it was the exclusive home to the ruling emperors of China, now it's a massive museum and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking in through the south gate you enter into courtyard after sweeping courtyard, each divided by a great hall of some sort. I lost track of how many halls and courtyards I walked through, four maybe? Once you get towards the north end of the palace it transforms into a labyrinth, the halls and courtyards shrink and multiply, and doorways and walkways snake around revealing little gardens and shrines. Relics and artwork can be found on display inside numerous buildings and people stroll the grounds taking in the history, culture, and architecture. Good thing it's not forbidden anymore, it's not something you want to miss if you visit Beijing.

TIANANMEN SQUARE

I was in New York City last week, and now I'm in Beijing. From one global city to another, a western metropolis and an eastern metropolis, both giving off a pulse that affects the entire planet! I'm staying on the outskirts of the Forbidden City, which is basically smack-dab in the middle of Beijing. Tiananmen Square sits just south of that, and is surrounded by staunch government buildings and scattered with noble monuments. With all of this nationalism and history located at the heart of Beijing, it's like the center of the Chinese universe. The whole area is quite an expanse, and I spent most of my first day exploring by foot. My hostel is just north of the Forbidden City, and after heading south around the outer walls I wound up in Tiananmen Square. Entry into the square requires a security check and a bag scan, and every lamp post is wrapped with cameras pointing in all directions (you can see one in the picture on the right). There are no places to sit, so people just kind of float around snapping photos and looking at things. The smog was heavy that day, and the late afternoon sun blanketed Tiananmen Square in a warm haze. Despite the fact that it was a cold winter's day in the middle of the week, the square was crawling with people, giving life to the stolid concrete prairie. It's a huge attraction, and people flock to Tiananmen Square in Beijing just as they do to Times Square in New York City, although I couldn't think of a more opposite space, both squares resting at the heart of their respective countries, one built around the ideals of Communism and the other representing the epitome of capitalism.

KINGDOM OF DUMPLING

There's a delicious restaurant in San Francisco called the Kingdom of Dumpling.  It must be named after the little alleyway in Beijing where I had my first meal in China.  I'd skipped breakfast that morning, and hadn't eaten dinner the night before having slept through the last meal on my flight over, so I was ready to eat!  I found this little kingdom of dumpling in a tiny alleyway just south of Tiananmen Square. I've realized that sometimes it's hard to get off the beaten bath in Beijing, because even the smallest alleyways can be bustling and full of life. I was pulled into this little restaurant by a young lady sitting outside after she caught me drooling over the dumpling making display going on in the window facing the alley. The Chinese menu didn't do me any good, but I guess they realized I wanted some dumplings, so before long they brought me out a steaming hot plate of deliciousness!  There must have been over thirty dumplings on that plate.  I mixed some vinegar and chili oil together on a little platter to dip the dumplings in, ordered a large Tsingtao, and went to town!  It was an awesome first meal in China.

CHINA

The last post on this blog dates back to late 2010.  It's been a while!  In a day or two I'll be in China, so I guess that's a good reason to start this thing up again. A few weeks ago I decided to take a job teaching English at a technical college in a city called Baotou.  It was kind of on a whim, and very much last minute, so I rushed off to New York City to take care of business at the Chinese Consulate.  Getting a work visa for China is kind of a drag, and the consulate in New York is a total shit show.  On top of that, the school in China couldn't seem to get me the proper paperwork.  We were in a crunch for time, so it was decided I'd enter the country on a tourist visa, and then figure out the work visa once I got there.  But a few days ago, less than a week before I was set to fly out, they reneged on the job offer.  I had already purchased a one-way ticket to China and was about to pick up my visa that afternoon.  I'd spent a lot of time and money preparing for this trip, but I guess for them, having to worry about getting me a work visa once I got there was too much of a hassle.  My sorrow lasted for about half a day, and then I realized that having a one-way ticket to China and absolutely nothing planned was awesome.  A blank slate!  I have no idea what I'm going to do when I get there, or for how long I will stay.  I may or may not have obligations in the fall, depending on whether I get into grad school, but until then I've got some adventures to go on!

PANAMA CITY

Our wonderful two week stay at Buz and Cheri's house came to an end, and Nick, Izzy, Zany and I headed to Panama City for a few nights before catching our flights back to the states. Our friend Stuart was nice enough to put us up and show us around, and it was quite a change of pace compared to the quiet countryside where we had just spent the last couple of weeks. Panama City's modern skyline is growing at an alarming rate, with construction cranes everywhere, and high rises popping up all a long the water. We spent the evening in Casco Viejo, the city's historic Spanish colonial district, where old dilapidated buildings are being fixed up and turned into trendy restaurants and art galleries. It was quite charming, and I wish I'd had more time to explore. But I had to head home. And now I'm back in San Francisco, trying to look for a job and figure out my life. I wish I could do this kind of stuff for a living... but doesn't everyone!

A ROCKY ROAD

Getting to and from Buz and Cheri's house is quite a trek! When they first bought the property they could only access their land by driving down the beach at low tide. Now there's a road, but it's still kind of a rugged drive. I don't really see them getting too many neighbors anytime soon. On the way back from surfing one day we came across a truck full of guys who got stuck in a ditch on a steep hill. Buz to the rescue!

TUNA FISHING

The other day we got up early and went fishing for tuna. Here's a little video about our adventure...

OYSTERS

You can see the ocean from Buz and Cheri's house, and it's a quick walk to the beach. On our first morning Buz took us down to the sea at low tide to pluck some oysters off the rocks...

PANAMA

A week ago I decided to join my friends Nick, Izzy and Zany on a trip to Panama. It was a last minute decision, and by the following night I was on a plane to Panama City! Buz and Cheri, some family friends of Nick and Zany, moved to Panama a few years ago and built a house on the Pacific coast about an hour outside of the town of Pedasi. It took us almost 24 hours to get here, but the journey was well worth it. Buz and Cheri are putting us up during our two week stay and they have been wonderful hosts. Their home is amazing, and it's completely off the grid! The dirt road that leads to their house is steep and muddy, and it didn't even exist when they bought the property in 2003. I took the photo in the upper left from an opposing hill. The main house is on the right, and the guesthouse, where we're all staying, is down on the left. It's a wonderful space, with red tile floors and big doors that open up to let in the ocean breeze. The picture on the bottom left is of the little power house out back. The solar panels on top provide the house with all the energy they need, and directly below that, 75 feet underground, is a well that supplies their home with all the clean and pure water you could ask for. Staying with Buz and Cheri is great, and Panama is awesome!

SO LONG, AFRICA!

I’m in Johannesburg now, and this evening I catch my flight back to the states. My journey has come to an end! Last December in Bangkok, before ending my nine-month stint in Southeast Asia, I wrote a similar blog post, except this time it’s not 4 AM and I’m sober. But looking back on my trip over the last four months - starting in Ecuador with Grace and Heidi, then heading off to South Africa to meet my sister for the World Cup, up to Namibia with Phil and Jonah, and everywhere else in between - I’ve once again realized that my journey has really been shaped by the people that I’ve shared it with. I’ve had the chance to travel with some great friends over the last few months, and I’ve also had the chance to make some great friends along the way. And all the wonderful things I have done and seen wouldn't have been the same if it weren't for my friends. Thanks!
And so now I’m heading home! I gotta find me a job. Perhaps I can find some way to keep this blog interesting after my travels have ended, I guess we’ll see. Either way, I hope that people have enjoyed it. I know my mom has, she’s the only one who ever comments on things. And thanks to all those who have been a part of it with me! It’s been fun. Until next time…

WINDHOEK

After a long weekend in Swakopmund I crammed into a local minibus for the three hour ride back to Windhoek. My flight back to Johannesburg didn’t depart until the following evening so I had a day to hang out and explore the city. I was at a café in Zoo Park when I heard the sound of drumming and singing, and after my meal I walked across the park to see what was happening. On the lawn facing Independence Avenue a group of people dressed in traditional clothing had started a song and dance to promote an upcoming arts and culture festival. The sidewalk facing them became crowded, passersby stopped to watch, and those enjoying an afternoon in the park gathered around to see the show. It was a great performance. But what I thought was really interesting was the group of Himba women that strolled over from the nearby market and plopped down on the grass to watch. The Himba, who live mainly in the north, are some of the most traditional people in Namibia, maybe in all of Africa. And there they were watching a cultural performance in the park. They weren’t dressed for any particular occasion, just wearing what they always wear, which isn’t much from the waist up, except for their necklaces. The Himba coat their skin in a red paste called otjize, which is made from butter fat, ash, and ochre. And use the same paste to cover their long, braided hair, creating what looks like shiny red dreadlocks. They find this look to be beautiful, and I must say, something about it is very stunning, their complexions are immaculate. Anyways, they didn’t need to perform any song and dance to promote their culture. Meanwhile I just sat there and thought about how cool Africa was. Africa. I’ve been here for three months and have only seen a very small part of it. There’s so much more out there! But that’s what traveling does - the more I see, the more I realize that there’s more to discover…