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Thursday, July 5, 2012

ISLAND HOPPING


By the time the typhoon blew over and the paradisal weather arrived, Natalie, Merissa, and I were itching to get out and explore the Bacuit Archipelago. The elements had kept us stranded in El Nido since we’d arrived, and the islands had been taunting us from stormy seas, but with permission from a picture perfect forecast we were finally free to play! A charismatic young Lithuanian guy named Ricky entered the scene, and was more than happy to organize a day trip with us. There were plenty of outfits in El Nido offering package tours, but being the wheeler and dealer that he was, Ricky cut out the middleman and nabbed us a cut-rate local guide. Our group total was six with the addition of a friendly French couple, and after picking up some lunch supplies from the market, we set out to explore the islands.

Forty-five minutes after leaving El Nido, we floated into a tranquil cove off Matinloc Island. With the exception of a few small beaches, the tiny inlet sat wrapped in steep and jagged cliffs. After some excellent snorkeling and a splash in the crystalline water, we slipped through a fissure in the limestone and swam into the Small Lagoon. Even at low tide the passage was tight, and one-by-one we entered the enclosed reservoir. The water inside took on a flat emerald hue and as we swam across we sent out gentle ripples that lapped into towering karstic walls. On the far side of the lagoon a partially submerged hole in the rock opened up into a small swimmable cave. A few beams of light poured in through a fractured ceiling and illuminated the cavern walls with shimmering reflections. After some aquatic spelunking, we left the cave, made our way back across the lagoon, and swam out to our boat. Incredible.

Before stopping to eat we took a cruise through a big lagoon and skirted around a few more islands. The Bacuit Archipelago was captivating. For lunch we picnicked under some trees on a small beach surrounded by limestone cliffs. There was another boat anchored off the strand when we arrived, but after they left we had the whole place to ourselves. We nibbled on sweet pineapple and sipped on rum punch while our guide grilled up a delicious fish, and with the addition of rice, some good company, and an amazing beach, it turned out to be an ideal meal. 


With full tummies we pushed back out to sea. And not long after that the engine decided to retire for the day. Our guide gave it a tinker but it was no use, and soon we were in search of a tow, with our next destination being at the mercy of whatever help came our way. This unplanned turn of events didn’t really bother anyone, and in fact, we all seemed content just drifting around among the karstic giants. But soon enough another boat came floating by and roped us along for a tug back towards the Small Lagoon, and from there we hitched another tow to Seven Commandos Beach.

Seven Commandos Beach ended up being our last stop of the day. Only accessible by boat, but not too far from El Nido, the beach was manicured and lively, and even had a little snack and beverage bar. A picturesque palm tree grove provided plenty of shade and the view out to sea gave way to a horizon speckled with islands. We were still without a motor, so when our ride was ready to leave, we took off for El Nido. We returned a little before nightfall, and after jumping off the boat we strolled down the beach and watched the sun as it melted into the sea. It was a perfect way to end the day...


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