LIJIANG

Yago and I left Dali on a bus as the sun was setting over the mountains and didn’t get into Lijiang until after ten. Like always, the map looked simpler in the guidebook, so not surprisingly we got lost on our attempted hike to the old-town. After wandering into a red-light district and being redirected by some hookers, we decided it was time to hail a cab. It was late by the time we found a guesthouse, but since we hadn’t eaten dinner we ventured out for some food and beers. After some kebabs and a scrumptious bowl of noodles, we decided it was time to call it a night. In an attempt to go directly back to the guesthouse, we ended up walking in a complete circle and found ourselves right back in front of the noodle shop. By the time we finally made it back we were exhausted, but also excited by the idea of tomorrows disoriented wanderings. Getting lost can be fun, after all.

I’ve been to a lot of ‘old-towns’ in China, if a city has one, then they’re usually the place to visit. It’s like visiting Boston and walking the Freedom Trail, except in China they’re just a tad older. It’s been fun seeing all of these ancient places, all with their own unique histories and character. Lijiang suffered a devastating earthquake in 1996, after which much of the old-town was re-built. It’s still true to its original form, but the revitalization has given it a more polished look and has resulted in a boosted tourism industry. One of the first things we did the next day was hike up to a hilltop park overlooking the old-town, but unlike some vistas that might provide a helpful perspective, the views only reaffirmed the fact that Lijiang is a complete labyrinth. Look at the picture on the left, that’s what we saw from up above - not that helpful when it comes to mapping out a route for the day, that is unless you can float across rooftops like a kung-fu assassin. There are no old city walls or gridded streets, no regularity in the dimensions of the layout. Waterways dictate the blueprint of the old-town, and it’s as though a web of winding streams acted as the guidelines for the erratic alleyways. The maze of thoroughfares are in constant motion as streams and small channels of water criss-cross or parallel every lane. Many of the buildings are entered by crossing a planked footbridge, and a number of the old natural wells spotting the town are still in use. It was fun getting lost in Lijiang.